sew country chick: Vintage and Couture techniques: Underlinings


This is a pink silk Shantung vintage style dress I made from a self- drafted pattern,



I have been studying vintage sewing technique. Above is one of my books where I learned that most clothing of quality fabric was often constructed with underlinings. It's a 1970 version revised from 1961. The drawings must be from 1961 because they don't have a late 60's feeling at all. Underlinings are different from linings because they are backed to your fashion fabric. You baste a mirror of the  underlining to the fashion fabric pattern pieces. They then function as one. Underlinings are only used in tailoring and formal wear nowadays. It's now considered a couture technique.


Above is the pink silk underlined with white silk organza which is very sheer. It gives a lightweight but crisp hand to the silk Shantung. The dress also has a China Silk lining and self fabric facings , giving the bodice four layers.


The inside of the bodice showing the China silk lining and pink silk facing. The underlining is inside and no longer visible.



I underlined the skirt with an old sheet to give it more body.


 A pickstitched hook and eye closure.



The finished dress. It has a draped pleated skirt.


sew country chick: Vintage and Couture techniques: Underlinings: "Pink Silk Shantung vintage style dress I got this great book at the thrift store Called The Better Homes and Gardens Sewing Book from ..."