summer lovin' in advance 8280, mccall 3489 and mccall 5314

version the first: cut on a whim on memorial day 2010. i used several new-to-me techniques: i block-fused the facings, i pick-stitched the zipper, and i attempted pleats. as i may have mentioned, i do often have issues with pleats, and i accidentally pleated them inside out. inside out was actually the best turnout, and it took me 5 tries just to get that far, so i kept it. to work within the constraints of a shorter-than-needed piece of fabric, i cut everything on the cross grain, changed the CF fold into a CF seam, changed the CB fold into a CB seam, and shortened the skirt by more than 9". because the skirt was, by now, quite short, i hemmed it with a cute piece of ribbon trim by turning up the edges a straight 1/2" all the way around. also, i made contrast facings, just because.

version the second:

image from Shaukat

same thing, only this time i remembered to re-size the bodice! also, i am thrilled to say that the pleats came out properly. i swapped the side seam for a CB seam, which somehow works out better for me, and i hand-picked the zipper without beads. this dress has turned into a fabulous little transitional piece as summer in NYC has rapidly faded into fall.

advance 8280: a summer love story at puu's door of time

i then used A8280 with pieces from other gorgeous 1950s dresses, specifically mccall 3489 and mccall 5314. originally i attempted to draft 3489 and 5314 from my A8280 pieces, but ended up buying the mccalls using all three patterns together to get some new dresses.

mccall 3489	mccall 5314

there's a lot of love happening here.

mccall 3489 and mccall 5314 at puu's door of time

vogue 6543: the summer wardrobe that almost was...

when i spotted this pattern on etsy i felt like i had discovered treasure. these little tops patterns from the 50s are like candy for me--i'm definitely trying to hunt them down. the reason is simple: i'm a really stingy fabric cutter. i'll add CB seams where there should be folds, i'll shorten skirts, i'll eliminate facings, all in the hopes of having a bit of fabric left over to play with. this top pattern became my playground. all summer long, when i wanted something cute, quick and satisfying i'd pull out a scrap and settle on a version and go to work.

construction:
a few tricks became standard: no facings, just contrast bias tape. finish all interior edges with bias tape. on the halter versions, (views B, C and D) i added sew-in interfacing, bra cups and a lining.

i had some button fun on view C:

what i learned...
i had naively assumed, not quite understanding the importance of wearing ease differences in different patterns, that i could re-draw this too-small pattern using my V8615 french dart bodice. and i could--on the front. the back, however, was much too big, with almost 4" of wearing ease i needed to fold out later. i was able to adapt but as you can see in my button shot, the results are wearable but not perfect. i would say this became a theme for my summer sewing, crystallized during the august sit-n-sew in NYC with susan khalje and kenneth king, when i finally made a moulage and sloper.

still...

View C	View C
View A	View B

not bad, right?

additional details cross-posted on puu's door of time

simplicity 4255: late summer sewing and laziness

Pattern Sizing:
size 14/32B

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
...yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
these instructions were a bit more abridged than i'd become used to, even for vintage patterns. by the 50s i had expected more! i definitely got a little flummoxed when trying to figure out their method of attaching the collar and facings.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
that super-wide collar screams "FIFTIES!!" to me and i wanted to try one. also, i thought a wrap blouse would be something new and fun to try. eventually i want to try the trousers, because the overall outfit has a great vibe.

Fabric Used:
liberty of london tana lawn "rosy c" from B&J Fabrics
cotton shirting with ribbon accent from Paron Fabrics


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
i shortened the sleeve and eliminated the cuff, because too much is too much no matter how cute the top is. i decided to do the facings, collar and tie pieces in a different pattern just to break up the small floral print of the original cotton.

Construction:
i put the main pieces of the blouse together first, and then did a clean facing application with some sew-in interfacing on the facing and collar pieces. it wasn't called for and it was completely unnecessary, but it gave the facing some real strength and shape against the ties, and really made the collar feel substantial. i attached the collar using a "burrito method" approach taken from margaret islander's "Shirts, Etc!" dvd.

cross-posted, additional info on puu's door of time

butterick 4919: pool-side party dress for a summer evening

Pattern Description:
Flared dress, fitted at bust, below midknee or floor length has back zipper and tie ends extending from bodice back.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
honestly, the instructions were fabulous and not what i was expecting at all! the dress was shockingly easy to put together and those few bits that had some confusion were easily explained in the instructions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
the wrap-front brought a gorgeous new twist to a classic marilyn-inspired 50s design.

Fabric Used:
liberty of london tana lawn "lillian's berries"
pink bemberg rayon lining from NY Elegant Fabrics
lining and dress trim from M&J Trimming

(image from Shaukat)

Construction:
shortened skirt by almost 10 inches (at least!) and finished hem with covered 1/2" horsehair braid using the technique in Lynda Maynard's Dressmaker's Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques. my cat tried to help with this, which made it extremely exciting and doubled the amount of time it should have taken. i did a hand-picked zipper and finished the top half of the zip--above the bow--with beads in the pickstitches.


Cross-posted at PatternReview
Cross-posted at puu's door of time

mccall 8332: 60's fabulousness on the strip in las vegas

call it the one that almost got away...

Pattern: McCall 8332
size 13/B33
"1968 Halter neckline dress has bias self fabric drawstring in casing of front neck, tied in bow at back of neck, and camisole type back bodice. Sleeveless dress, with high front neckline, has deep cutback bodice in one with back neckband which is hooked under applied bias bow. Either view has French darts in bodice front, set in faced waistband, three section gathered skirt and is lined. Halter dress has center back zipper in bodice, waistband and skirt. Other version has zipper in skirt, and waistband fastened with hooks and eyes. " (description from vintage pattern wiki)

Fabric:
Liberty of London Tana Lawn "Syndenham Palace" from Purl Soho
Pink Bemberg Rayon from NY Elegant Fabrics
Trim from Mood Fabrics



The Story:
this was one of those patterns that pop up on eBay, and you like it, and you watch it....and then you forget that the auction is ending. i spent months with "McCall 8332" as a saved Google and eBay search, waiting for it to come back around, just because i thought it was so adorable. then i found out, from the Vintage Fashion Librarian, that this dress is basically a copy of one of Jackie Kennedy's Oleg Cassini pieces, and it was true love. at long last, the day came that a saved eBay search notice popped up in my inbox, and this time i did *not* forget the end of the auction. in fact, i sort of wonder if the previous purchaser had made her own version of the dress and re-listed it, because it was exactly the same size and it looked like the same picture. hmmm.

Construction:
the pattern size is slightly too big for me, so i used my french dart sloper from my trusty vogue 8615 to redraw the front bodice piece. i interfaced the front bodice as well as the side back pieces with a sew-in interfacing and attached bra cups to the front bodice for a little bit of shape and support. fun fact: the instructions for the lining on this pattern have a fabulous method for attaching the lining entirely by sewing machine, which i have since seen used many other times. i believe it is a "tunnel" method, where you sew the neck and armscye seams, as well as part of the center back, and then use that tunnel to pull the lining through so that the fashion fabric and lining are properly aligned. then you sew the side seams and finish the center back. fantastic and easy--has become my go-to method for lining insertion. i had a bit of trouble with the faced waistband, only because i was still relatively new to this type of insertion.

meanwhile, i actually constructed about 98% of this dress almost a year ago, in september 2010. the bow was a bit sad and the back needed a slight tuck (turns out i actually have a small swayback). last week, determined to pack it for my upcoming trip, i stitched in a small tuck on each back piece and attached snaps to the bow to keep it looking smart. literally finished sewing the snaps on the airplane. the flight attendant thought i was insane and told my sister so.



one more thing...

Pattern: (almost) McCall 7743, actually self-drafted from pieces of Vogue 8615, Simplicity Project Runway 2927 and Simplicity 4903

this one actually did get away. i can't be the only one who was insanely inspired by Tasia's beautiful Sixties McCall 7743. i've searched and searched for this pattern, only to come up empty. this summer, i decided my drafting skills were finally up to the challenge of recreating this pattern using pieces i already had.

i used a crazy, very 60s liberty print (Durie) i ordered from Shaukat in the UK. same thing as above: cute, bright lining, trimmed lining hem, cups in the front bodice piece. too perfect, right? i'm so happy with the result.

worn to see Cirque du Soleil's LOVE at The Mirage. (crappy cell phone pix generously taken by my sister, who *also* thought i was insane and totally agreed with the flight attendant)

(also, i am not nearly as mopey as i look...i just have bronchitis in these pictures)
cross-posted at my blog, puu's door of time

adorable 1950s day dress: McCall 3489

Pattern Description:
1950s day dress with bateau/semi-cowl neckline, darted front, gored skirt.

Pattern Sizing:
30B/Size 12
using a fitted piece from another bodice, i sized it up to a 32.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
the bateau neckline was a bit of a challenge, but the instructions were by and large very solid.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
i was drawn to the great neckline and bodice shape above all. the gored skirt i can take or leave--in fact, i left it, subbing in a pleated skirt from advance 8280.

Fabric Used:
pale yellow china silk, Paron Annex, NYC
liberty of london tana lawn, "honeymoon," purchased on eBay (2 meters for about the price of 1yd at B&J, score!). it sang to me for this dress!

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
because i had my beloved advance 8280 on standby, i was mass-cutting a few dresses at once. to save time and fabric, i used the pleated skirt from the advance pattern on all three, including this one.

i lined the dress in yellow china silk, to highlight the tiny bit of cheery yellow amongst the flowers and spiderwebs of the tana lawn.

i finished my skirt lining with some 1/2" horsehair braid and a bit of lace in a great contrasting burgundy color.


Conclusion:
at about the same time i was making this dress, i was also working on some other things: a basic 1960s cowl-neck blouse from simplicity 1839, and determining the appropriate pattern for some printed italian silk (literally, straight off the boat and still unpriced at mood when dennis showed it to me). at the time, i was leaning toward vogue reprint 1084, which has a very similar shape to this dress.

it was fun to compare three very different techniques to achieve a cowl/bateau neckline shape.

i was going to say "head over to the new vintage lady's etsy shop! she has this pattern for embarrassingly less than i paid for it!"...but she's already sold it. c'est la vie!

1940s Simplicity 1297 - a dress for when you *wish* it was springtime!

Pattern Description:
Misses' and Women's Sun Dress and Bolero. A "Mother and Daughter Fashion". For "Daughter", see Simplicity 1296. The dress is styled with princess lines and supported by shoulder straps. A bow-trimmed fold outlines the upper edge of bodice and finishes the skirt. The cap-sleeved bolero is lined. In Style I, contrasting fabric is used for bolero lining, bow, straps and folds. In Style II, the contrasting bolero is lined with dress fabric. Style III, evening version, does not have skirt fold. (description from Vintage Pattern Wiki)


Pattern Sizing:
sz 16/34B
this is one of those situations where the waistline and hipline fit beautifully but some serious tinkering is needed on top.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
yes, it's a lovely, simple pattern that is well-represented by the envelope and drawings.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
in as much as 1940s instructions are ever easy, these were. it's a simple pattern. ultimately, i did end up changing some of my techniques--i deviated from the instructions most notably on the installation of the upper band and shoulder straps, treating the band like a backwards facing and getting the raw edges of the straps in under there. it's a clean, simple install.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
it reminded me of a 40s piece i saw in my local vintage shop, and i was determined to replicate it.

Fabric Used:
cotton stretch from Paron Annex, NYC
Liberty of London tana lawn, New York Elegant Fabrics

Construction:
i shortened it significantly and worked on adjusting the bust size using a princess seam "sloper" than kenneth king helped me make for a princess line jacket. this worked, but still needed a tweak. it sat, unloved, for about a week until on a whim i decided to pick it up sunday morning and finish it for a bridal shower event that afternoon. cute, quick, easy, and the deep blues really suited my mood because it should have been spring on that late april afternoon but was barely in the 50-degree (F) range! the sweater was a necessity, not a fashion statement...

i also shifted the zipper to a center back alignment to give me more economical pattern-cutting options. i still have enough left of the print for a top!

Pattern for 1930s Scarf Jacket

I recently bought this pretty 1930s jacket which was made from one Liberty of London scarf. I've drawn out a cutting diagram and given simple sewing directions for you to make your own jacket, here at The Vintage Traveler. And see the original post about the jacket too.

advance 3951: the winter-that-wouldn't-end dress

Pattern Description:
(from etsy seller clovas)
Darling day dress with faux wrap bodice. The dress can be belted or tied. There is also the option of a scalloped or straight edging, so cute.


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
the faux-wrap gives the bodice a nice look while using less fabric (helpful in 1940s rationing and also when using liberty fabric!) than a traditional wrap. i like the looseness of gathers on these 40s bodices, and the scallop seemed like a great mate for the fabric i had chosen. in fact, this pattern lingered on my "favorites" list for months until i saw the fabric and immediately found inspiration.

Fabric Used:
liberty of london tana lawn, appropriately titled "winter stem", from purl in New York City



Conclusion:
here in the tundra formerly known as NYC, the weather continues to drag on and on as though no one has passed mother nature the memo that it is april and time for nicer weather! although i'd originally intended this dress to be a house dress, or a weekend dress, yesterday, the weather was raw, damp, windy and unpleasant and this seemed an appropriate dress for the occasion:
comfortable, a "winter" print, and yet colorful enough to impart some cheer. alas, the comfort factor on the dress made me realize how much i'd rather be at home, with a cute pair of leggings on under it and a much heavier sweater on over it, with my feet up and something hot and spiked in a mug by my side. all day, whenever i looked down at my dress, i longed to be home and even felt that not all 40s day dresses were created equal in terms of work-week wear.

i have not yet made the tie, although i intend to.

this dress was constructed on a whim one saturday evening a week to the day after i had taken the fabric home--the very day the pattern arrived in the mail. it was late--always a bad sign--and i was cutting. i'll just say that i had to cut the bodice more than once!

also--understitching scallop facing = interesting times...


Make again?
advance 3951 may not get made again, and this particular inclination of it will certainly be employed more on weekends than during the week. however, i continue unabashed my love and appreciation of these 1940s advance patterns. they are basic, a cinch to work with, and offer up loads of options because of their simplicity. prints, solids, stripes, it all works, it's all easy, and it's all fun to wear--if you wear it in the right environment!

frankenpattern: it's alive! (1940s day dress)

the ideal: McCall 6273, originally spotted on glass of fashion

ORIGINAL Pattern Description:
(from glass of fashion's etsy site)
Cute pattern by McCalls for a button through dress with gathered detailing on the bodice. Choose a high keyhole neck with bow detail or cut-out neck. Three sleeve variations: short gathered, three quarter gathered, or long and straight.


Actual Patterns Used:

Simplicity 3262 purchased from savagespider	McCall 6314 purchased from VintageJubilee

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
yes! in fact, i liked it even better once i decided to make the skirt have some extra fullness in the back, as suggested by McCall 6314.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
i decided that the gathers on the bust darts were too nice a design feature to ignore. of course, the instant i decided this, someone snapped up the pattern on etsy. six months later i finally had enough understanding of the pattern pieces, and additional patterns for inspiration and guidance, to attempt it on my own.

Fabric Used:
liberty of london tana lawn "hanako" from B&J in New York City

(image from tessuti fabrics)

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
simplicity 3262 had both the bust gathers i admired as well as a kimono sleeve, instead of the set-in sleeve on McCall 6314. gathering up the sleeve and tying it off was simple and easy and best of all, built into the sleeve on S3262. M6314 inspired a continuous gather going from the bust apex down to about the hip, which i found both flattering and aesthetically pleasing. also, i really enjoyed the skirt design on M6314, which gives one some extra fullness in the back.

obviously, looking at the pattern pieces, there is very little complicated drafting going on here, and given enough time i could have done it myself--maybe. (drafting is a bit out of my wheelhouse, but necessity may have surprised me...) still, i had these patterns in the stash, and why re-invent the wheel? the major "drafting" i did was to turn the v-neck into a sweetheart neckline (thank you, french curve) and to draft an extension beyond the CF point on the bodice and skirt pieces to accommodate a button front.

i shortened the skirt to go 22" down from my natural waistline instead of the period-appropriate below-knee length. but i'm beginning to wonder, given the prevalence of longer hems this season, if i may need to stop shortening my vintage skirt patterns!

Construction:
as has become my standard practice on these gorgeous 40s dresses, i didn't line or face anything but finished all seams (including neckline and armscye) with a bias binding. in this instance, i used a matching bias binding on all seams and finished the waistline seam with a bit of contrast grosgrain ribbon from Pacific Trimmings. the hem was turned up and finished with some basic wright's hem lace in the same color as the ribbon.

buttonholes thanks to jonathan embroidery. to make the front extensions work as a sort of makeshift placket, i took a strip of fusible interfacing tape, sewed it to the RS raw edge of the extension, flipped it over to encase the edge, and turned the entire bit over once more for a clean and "faced" finish. really, an adaption of the excellent facing techniques recently described on both the off-the-cuff blog as well as the male pattern boldness shirt sew-a-long.

another advance 3929

still loving this pattern, advance 3929. this time i made view 3, a sweetheart neckline with a cap sleeve. learning from my first outing i redrew the bodice pattern slightly, taking in the sides to more of a 32 bust range, and altering the waist gathers slightly to accommodate my figure. this had the added benefit of reducing some of the excess fabric i had seen across my shoulders in my first version, so, encouraged by success, i took apart and re-assembled my first version in order to make these fitting changes. it was love at first sight all over again!

fabric, of course, liberty of london tana lawn mystery print that i got at B&J in NYC. i first saw it late last summer and was struck by the whimsy and cuteness of it--it seems to be little birds (or bees) buzzing around a bit of foliage, interspersed over lovely pink polka dots. i can't find a picture or name for it online anywhere, and they do not seem to have it anymore at the liberty mothership in london, nor at shaukat. B&J, however, have it still, and in two colorways, no less, but the website is slightly out of date.

you can't see in the picture, but i finished this piece off with a self-fabric belt made by the amazing pat's custom buttons and belts in california. i cannot say enough about how positive an experience i had with this service. my full, gushing review can be found on patternreview, along with photos of the two other belts i had done and the 200 buttons.